Monday, July 24, 2017

Adventures in Dyeing

I'm currently home sick from work with bronchitis, so what better time to make some tea, pull up a comfy chair, wear pajamas, and type up a blog post?

Okay, so I might be loopy from my medicine, but let's hope that adds that extra sparkle to my words.

Since January, I have been playing with pots and pans, my oven, my stove, my yarn, and acid. No, not that acid. Acid dyes!

My first skein turned out... let's just say I thought it was neat at the time, though hindsight is 20/20. It was awful. Just awful.

I'm glad I stuck with it, though, because each skein I dyed got better and better. From Disney character influences (Hades, Maleficent, Ariel, and more) to fantasy ideas (Mermaids, Faeries, and Dragons, oh my!), I began to realize the work and mindset dyeing required to make visions reality. Even more than that, it takes patience and money. Over $500 later between types of yarn and colors of dye, I had a pretty good booklet going of what acids became what color when mix a certain way and yaddita yaddita. I'm a stickler for note-taking.

After lots more of trial and error,  I even got speckles to work out! Turns out I just need to sprinkle that stuff like the magic pixie dust it is, make sure not to have too much water, and whamo. You got your speckles... or, in my case, blood splatters. 

What I learned from these adventures is that you can't give up. Look at my top photo and now my bottom photos... this took four months of dyeing off and on (when I get the chance between commissions and my day job), notes, and keeping a sense of adventure when dyeing. It's true that no two skeins are alike, even if you meticulously weight your dye and water amounts, get the same temperatures and baking times, and all other sorts of details. 

For some, this may seem like a whole lot of work for nothing, but what I've learned is that each skein I've dyed has a little extra sparkle because of what I was thinking when I was creating it. Batch dyes can be so ho-hum, but individual, truly individual, works aren't just a reflection of the effort you put in, but the piece of soul you add as the special ingredient. My skeins will never be the same as yours, and that's just the way it should be.

Party on, dyers!

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Every Soldier Of Love Needs Coffee

Or tea, or, for those daring ones, some Irish coffee.

Whatever you put in your coffee cup, this pattern is for a sailor scout like you.

How do you expect me to fight when I don't have caffeine?

My supplies:
Cotton yarn in worsted weight– in white and the coordinating colors of your sailor scout of choice
H/5mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle

This project can be done in any most any type of yarn, though I’d stay away from super silky ones because dropping it and having zero grip on your cup would end in a not so happy day. While I used cotton (because I have a love affair with soft cotton yarn), acrylic and wool are perfectly fine to use along with a plethora of other fibers. If you can find the colors of your favorite scout or even your original creation, then have at it!

Also, please be sure test your gauge after one or two rounds on the cup you plan on using this on, just so you can make sure it doesn’t slide too easily off and on.  Adjust your hook as necessary.

Mug Holder:

This pattern starts at the bottom of the holder and works up.

With white yarn
Ch 30
SS to beginning ch to form ring. Be careful not to  twist.*
*This is a good time to wrap it around the bottom of where you think the bottom of your holder will be on your cup of choice.
R1: Ch 1, sc in same ch you ss into, and sc around. ss to top of ch1 at beginning of round.
R2: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in next 15 sts, 2sc in next st, sc to end of round, ss to top of ch1
R3: Ch 1, sc in same st, and sc around. ss to top of ch1
R4: Ch1, sc in same st, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next st (should line up closely with the 2in1sc from R2), sc to end of round, ss to top of ch1
R5: Ch 1, sc in same st, and sc around. ss to top of ch1
R6-9: Ch1, do not sc in same stitch, sc around and join with ss to starting ch
Cut yarn and pull through

For me, this measured about 2.5 inches/6.2 cm tall. As long as it is a height that you like, then you can stop. Again, the important part is the circumference and that it fits snugly, but not chokingly, on your cup.

With first color yarn (red on mine)

Create a magic circle and sc 7 into it.
Ss to first sc and cinch tight.
Cut yarn and pull through

Collar (make two):
With first color yarn (red on mine)

Ch 7
R1: Ch1, turn, sc2 together, sc 1, sc 2 together
R2: Ch 1, turn, sk 1 st, sc 2
Cut yarn and pull through

Top Bow:
With second color yarn (purple on mine)

Ch 13
R1: Hdc in third chain from hook, hdc 3 , sc 2, hdc 5
R2: Ch 2, turn, hdc 4, sc 3, hdc 4
R3: Ch 2, turn, hdc 4, sc 3, hdc 4
R4: Ch 1, turn, hdc 2, ss 4, hdc 2
Cut yarn and pull through

Also cut off a length of yarn (I used about 24 inches) of second color and wrap it around the center of this piece to cinch it tighter. See picture below for how it should look once finished.

Bottom Bow (make two):
With second color yarn (purple on mine)

Ch 6
R1: sc in second ch from hook, hdc 3, sc 4 in last chain, (now working in other side of chain and bottom of original sts) hdc 3, sc to first ch
Cut yarn and pull through

 Here are all of your pieces without the ends woven in
Mmmm lovely yarn spaghetti

And here they are oven in - feel free to use the thread to pull and slightly perfect the shapes of your appliques.
I call this piece "The Warrior Undressed"

Now you have made all of the pieces! Time to assemble...
How you do this is up to you.
Some prefer fabric or hot glue.
Others prefer to sew with needle and thread or yarn and a tapestry needle.
Whatever your fancy, arrange the pieces to look like your sailor soldier's schmancy top in your ideal fashion and use your tools to make the magic happen. I will totally not judge you if you pretend your hot glue gun is a crescent wand. Because then I'd be a hypocrite. 

Go make your drink of choice, slip on your new cozy, and go fight for love and justice!

Casually trying to hide the cup logo because they ain't payin' me to advertise

Monday, May 1, 2017

The Worst Blanket Ever

As I’ve grown as a person and crafter, I’ve come to learn that we all eventually face projects that we don’t necessarily want to work on. In fact, we don’t even like them that much.

In some cases, we loathe them with our very existence.

I have met my bane and its name is the Worst Blanket Ever.

Burn me.

It all started when the first wife of my long-deceased father (wrap your head around that one) came to me and said, “My daughter is getting married next November and she absolutely adores peacocks. Could you make this blanket so I can give it to her as a gift?”

I clicked on the image of the link forwarded to me and I saw the same peacock blanket that had been making the rounds. You know how it is – one person makes it, everyone likes it, they share it, suddenly it’s everywhere (can we say “mermaid blanket?”) and everyone is wanting one with no knowledge of the work that is needed.

Now, I must confess that I have a tragic flaw; I give into peer pressure extremely easily when it comes to making others happy. So, I look at the blanket, remind myself that I’m kind of a fan of peacocks, and “Sure! Why not.”

“How much?” she asked.
“Eh, make it around $100. I know that’s steep for a blanket but it’ll cover the cost of both supplies and my time.”
“I think I can do that. Thank you!”

I figured, “Eh, what the heck. She’s giving me a year’s head start and I’ll make a little bit of money.”

I was wrong, y’all. I was very, very wrong. Currently, I am over $100 in yarn alone, and the pattern itself cost $5.

All these colors used in one feather. Times a billion.

Speaking of, let’s talk about patterns.

When you make them, test them. And don’t just do it yourself – have others test them. This is important, especially if you’re selling the pattern, because you don’t want anyone investing in your pattern and then finding out that it’s full of typos, doesn’t list any yarn that’s still available, or has major design flaws such as the gauge is completely off.

This last one is particularly important. The Worst Blanket Ever’s pattern listed a gauge saying one feather applique with an H hook (5mm) will be around 6 inches in diameter or so.

Yeah, that is a big fat fib, I’ll have you know. I am using an M hook to make these appliques and they’re still not six inches! And I’m not the only one who has come across this issue; at least twenty other people have made the same complaint. And if you use the directions provided, saying you will have a large comfy blanket, you will end up with a disappointingly inadequate baby-blanket size afghan. It’s just not cool to send out an untested pattern, folks.

Still, the blanket does seem pretty cool in the pictures so to heck with it. I’ll power on.

Through trial and error, I cast on about twice what the directions said for a nice-ish size blanket and found my M hook makes a good size applique that won’t have me making thousands upon thousands.

It has been six months since the request for this blanket has come in, and I am happy to report that the initial backing of the blanket is complete and about twenty-six appliques.

Twenty-six out of too many.

I will post my progress as I travel along with this nightmare of a monstrosity…. If it doesn’t kill me first.

Wish me luck!

And don’t make this blanket.


Don't let my beauty fool you. I'm pure evil.

Monday, June 13, 2016

Purls of Wisdom

If you had seen my first ever knitting project, a scarf, you would have thought it had been taken onto a battlefield. There were holes all over the places, dropped stitches, picked-up stitches, and one end was around seven inches wide with the other end being about a foot and a half. A close friend, Wendy, taught me to knit while introducing me to the "Phantom of the Opera," and to this day I cannot thank her enough for both. Bless her heart, when she saw my first project she smiled and encouraged me to keep practicing, not a hint of cringing. Then again, she is a smart woman and, after teaching all of her children (sons included!) to knit, she knew that we all start somewhere.

And I was darn proud of that thing. Apparently not proud enough because I no longer have it. Perhaps that is because I made it as a seventh grader in 2004 and since then I have moved a few times and you know how it is. Maybe it is because I finished another project after that, realized how horrid it was, and threw it back into the closet never to return until I perhaps threw it away. No idea but I wish I had kept it so you could see how far you can come between your first and second project, let alone twelve years.

I practiced my garter stitch for about three or four months and then my grandmother said, "Lena, I found this book of knitting stitches and patterns that I had as a young woman," and she handed me a book from the seventies full of cable-knit sweaters, children vests, dresses, and a library of some various stitches. My first look at the book was of cross-eyed wonder and fright. I would never be able to attempt those. Ever! Knitting in a ... circle? Double-pointed needles? I hade size 13 needles about six or seven inches long and some Red Heart Super Saver yarn. Sweaters and cables were not options.

That glossary and examples of different stitch patterns, though... hmm...

The problem I ran into was that these stitches called for this dark magic called "purling."

I can still remember that night. I curled up on my bed with the knitting spell book, some brand new size 4 needles as my wands, and pink yarn as my component. For three hours, I read these cryptic instructions in a vintage book with faded cream and grey pictures and tried to conjure a "purl" from my extremely non-dexterous hands. I failed once, twice, countless times. I knew how to knit - insert the needle, wrap it around, and draw it back through so that the yarn you just wrapped around becomes a new loop and the old loop just falls off. Easy! What do you mean purling is the "opposite?" How can anything be the opposite of knitting save for not knitting? Ah, middle schoolers and their love of seeing life as black and white, right?

If I close my eyes, I can pull up that moment of stupendous joy when I had finally pulled my working needle away from the left needle and a purl stitch appeared, crisply and cleanly on my right needle.

I had done it!!

(Okay, how did I do it? Cue another five minutes of trying to remember exactly what I did.)

I grew up with my grandparents and, being in the early 2000s, we only had dial-up internet. If there were any videos of how to purl available online, it would have taken my computer just as long to load the videos for me to watch as it did to teach myself from this old book, not even counting for how long it would take pages to load as I searched for a video.

The next time I saw Wendy, I told her of my adventures in learning to purl and she was proud and, on top of that, happy that I kept pursuing knitting.

While this memory is precious to me now, I remember my struggling at learning to purl and it would be pointless with our technology as it is today to not take advantage of it.

So let's use this awesome thing called the internet and learn to purl!


Make sure the yarn is in front of the needle and not behind. Insert the needle into the front of the stitch by going "down" into the loop instead of "up" like in knitting. Wrap the yarn around the needle. Bring needle back up through the stitch with the new yarn becoming the new loop/stitch. Sounds complicated, I know.

Here are some gifs to demonstrate:
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See how the working yarn is hanging down in front of the needle instead of behind. Insert the needle into the stitch by going down through it and wrap the yarn around.

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Pull the needle back through the loop with the working yarn becoming the new stitch.

And that's it!

 Here is the process from beginning to end.

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Friday, June 3, 2016

Single, Double, Treble Crochet and You

Pop quiz: What do single, double, half-double, and treble crochet stitches have in common?

Basically everything, actually.

If you know how to wrap a piece of yarn around a the hook and pull it through a loop - literally those two actions - then congrats! You already know how to do all of these stitches!

No really, I'm not joking.

The action of doing a single crochet is defined as such:

Insert hook into the stitch (or "V"), yarn over (loop yarn around the hook), and draw the yarn through the stitch/"V" you just inserted it into. At this point, you should have two loops on your hook. Yarn over once again and draw the yarn through the two loops on the hook.

When you break it down like that, it sounds like a lot, but that's how everything is. If you broke down the meticulous details of how to sharpen a pencil (pick up the pencil, put one foot in front of the other in the direction of the pencil-sharpener, raise pencil, insert the pencil into the hole on the left of the sharpener, and so on and so forth), it can also sound time-consuming and difficult. But is it? Not really, no.

So here is the SC in action:

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I know I went a little fast - I apologize.

Single Crochet 

The breakdown: Insert your hook into the stitch/"V", yarn over, and bring the hook and yarn back through the stitch you just came through. This will create two loops on your hook. Do NOT bring it through the stitch and the one loop already on your hook unless you mean to "Slip Stitch" instead of "Single Crochet."

 The visual:
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Now that you have two loops on your hook, yarn over again and bring the yarn through the two loops. You are done! That is a Single Crochet!
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Okay, I'm going to show you the whole process again from beginning to end and a little bit slower than before. Also, pay attention to my right thumb - I am pointing out the "V" so you know where exactly you are to insert from the stitch below. This is for a normal Single Crochet.
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Are you ready to step it up a notch? Let's learn Double Crochet and Treble Crochet. The only difference between Single, Double, and Treble is that you do the whole action of the Single Crochet... a single time. For a Double Crochet, you do it twice. Treble, eh you get it.

Double Crochet

The breakdown: Double Crochet - you yarn over once before you insert your hook into the stitch/"V" below. Insert your hook, and bring it through the stitch. Yarn over again and bring it through the first two loops on the hook (the loops closest to the hook). Yarn over once again and draw through the remaining loops.

The visual: Yarn over once before you insert your hook, insert the hook, yarn over and bring yarn through the stitch/"V." This creates three loops on your hook.
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Yarn over and bring the yarn through the first two loops only.
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Yarn over again and draw through the last two hoops.
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Treble Crochet 

The breakdown: Treble Crochet - you yarn over twice before you insert your hook into the stitch/"V" below. Insert your hook and bring it through the stitch. Yarn over again and bring it through the first two loops on the hook (the loop closest to your hook). Yarn over again and draw through the two loops closest to the hook. Yarn over a final time and draw through the remaining loops. Repetitive, eh? 

The visual: Yarn over twice before you insert your hook
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Insert the hook and bring the yarn through
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Yarn over, bring the yarn through the first two loops Yarn over, bring the yarn through then next two loops Yarn over a final time and bring the yarn through the final two loops
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Okay, now we're really going to spice it up.

The Half Double.

The breakdown: Yarn over once before inserting your hook like you would a normal Double Crochet. Bring the yarn through the stitch/"V." Yarn over and bring through all three loops on the hook.

Wait what?

Yup. That's it.

Sorry for the disappointment. =/

The visual: Yarn over once, insert your hook, and bring the yarn through to create the three loops.
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Yarn over again and draw through all three loops.
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Now what do these stitches look like once complete? Here is an example of Treble, Double, Half Double, and Single Crochet all in a line:

Here I have the same picture but with notations:

And that's all there is to them!

Just a reminder, these are US terms. Here are how they are most often abbreviated in patterns:

Single Crochet - sc
Double Crochet - dc
Half Double Crochet - hdc
Treble Crochet - tc

I hope this tutorial was clear! Please let me know if you have any questions!

Happy Crocheting!

Friday, April 22, 2016

The Basics of the Basics

It doesn't matter if you've been crocheting for fifteen years or fifteen minutes - the basics are the foundation to every project and no one is immune to using them.

Today I am going to demonstrate how to do the following:


How to Chain:

First, make a loop out of the yarn where you want to start crocheting.
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Next, pull one strand of the yarn through the loop and pull so it creates a closed loop. This is called a "slip knot." No masks or heavy music required.
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Now comes to crochet hook. Insert the hook into the loop and pull on the strands so the loop tightens around it - pull it until the loop is tight enough so it doesn't slip off easily but it can still slide along the shank of the hook.
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This is where the actual crocheting begins. Are you ready? You "grab" the yarn with the hook and pull it through the loop. This pushes the former stitch down with the newest one now being the only loop on the hook.
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And that is it! That is seriously all there is to chaining as far as steps.

You can just keep going... and going... and going... and going...
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It is important to note, however, that how loose or tight you pull the yarn through - how big the loop is around your crochet hook determines the tension of your project. The more yarn in your loop, the larger the gaps in between stitches. The less yarn, the tighter. Each person finds their own natural tension, which is entirely normal. It is key, however, to strive for a balance between too tight and too loose - the former can make it difficult to insert the hook into stitches, putting unnecessary stress on the yarn, your hook, and most importantly, your own body. The latter creates limp work where patterns are not easily visible, the stitches have large gaps in between, the individual threads snag easily, and can eat your yarn stash up. There are more drawbacks to the extreme ends of the tension spectrum, but I won't continue ranting. Find a natural flow in your body when you chain and work from there - once you make a few rows, you'll find out which side you lean towards the most.

As someone who originated as a knitter and became a crocheter, working on my tension was by far the most difficult aspect of crocheting. I finished simple scarf as my first project and by my second project, I had found my rhythm. So while this cornerstone is most often deemed the toughest part of learning to crochet, do not let it intimidate you!

How to Turn:

The blue Vs (or "y") are stitches - each pair is one stitch, as noted by the yellow circle around one pair.

So when you are counting your stitches, no matter the row, if you look at your work from the "top" of the row you just completed, these Vs will always show up. Think of the blue v pairs, and count them to know how many stitches are in the row.

Pop quiz: Looking at the picture above, how many stitches are in that chain?

**"Jeopardy" theme plays softly in background**

The correct answer should be ten! If you got eleven, make sure you do not count the loop at that is currently on the hook. That is not a stitch. That is a loop. That is a little child hoping to grow into a stitch one day, should you deem it worthy.

When turning, you need to know what stitch you're going to start with in the next row. This is because, when you "turn" your work so you can go back the way you just came, you will have all sorts of wonky-looking sides that are not in a straight line unless you chain before starting the new row. So if you want a scarf to not be a super skinny long rectangle and instead a wibbly-wobbly mess, then do not chain. You're weird.

The stitch you will do in the next row dictates how many extra chains you need to do in the foundation or how many you need to tack on the row below before turning your work around.

In US terms:

Single Crochet - one chain
Half-Double Crochet - two chains
Double Crochet - three chains (or two, if you prefer)
Treble Crochet - four chains (or three, if you prefer)

Am I confusing you yet? Let's set up an example:

Let's say I have just finished chaining how many stitches wide I want it to be. Twenty stitches. No more, no less, so I chained twenty.

The pattern calls for the first row to be done in single crochet. 
What do I do?

I chain one more before starting the first row. That makes the foundation have twenty-one stitches but one of those is going to roll up to create the side of the work. So, my work will still be, when all is said and done, twenty-stitches.

Okay, now let's change it up. I chained once, single-crocheted into each stitch for the first row and now I'm at the end of it. The pattern says I am to double crochet in the next row.
What do I do?

I chain three times (or just twice) at the end of the second row, turn my work, and begin double crocheting.

When you turn the work and make the first stitch of the next row, do NOT stitch into the chains you just created unless your pattern expressly tells you so. When you crochet, you crochet from the top - you pull the yarn through the top of the row below and bring it up back to the hook. The chains at the end of each row form a bond between the two rows so you can always start at an appropriate distance away from the row below. You only want to stitch into the actual stitches of the work - the chains on the sides are there for support only.

And that's all there is to chaining and turning! Those are the first two steps used in crocheting. My next post will cover the single crochet step and how to end a row. I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any questions!

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Friday, April 8, 2016

Dahlia Flower Pad Tutorial

One of my favorite details when hosting friends for a meal is the doily. Sure, we can go out and buy the disposable paper doilies we used when we were in grade school to decorate Valentine's Day cards. Or we can be super daring and crochet then block some cotton thread doilies.

Eh, I'd like to go medium daring and create a dahlia flower. Depending on the yarn you use, this can be a thick doily, a hot pad, or a centerpiece base.

When I first looked at this, I won't lie - I thought it was daunting to say the least. Then I remembered that, like almost all crochet patterns, it is just a new combination of the same stitches I've been doing for years. Let's get started!

I will do a photo tutorial first with a condensed pattern at the bottom.


  • ~130 yards of yarn
    • I used Cascade North Shore in Teal
  • Size H 5.00mm hook

Abbreviations Used (US):

  • sl st - slip stitch - Insert your hook, yarn over, and pull the loop back through the stitch and the loop on your hook.
  • sc - single crochet - Insert your hook, yarn over, and pull the loop back through the stitch. Yarn over once more and pull through both loops currently on your hook.
  • hdc - half double crochet - Yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over again, and pull through the stitch. Yarn over once more and pull through all three loops currently on your hook.
  • dc - double crochet - Yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over again, and pull through the stitch. Yarn over once more and pull through first two loops currently on your hook. Yarn over a last time and pull through last two loops on your hook.

Special Stitches:

  • Petal - 1 sc in first stitch, 1 hdc in second stitch, 5 dc in third stitch, 1 hdc in fourth stitch, 1 sc in fifth stitch.

Photo Tutorial:

To start out, make a magic circle (or ch 6 and sl st the ends to create a circle).

Round One: Ch 1, work 15 sc into ring and join with sl st in first sc.

Round Two: Ch 2 (counts as 1dc), work 2dc in every sc around. Join with sl st at top of initial ch 2 of the round.

Round Three [Petal Round]: In this round, and all future Petal Rounds, only work in the front loops. Ch 1, sc in same stitch, hdc in next stitch, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 1sc. You have created one petal! 

Continue the petal around - (sc, hdc, 5dc, hdc, sc). You should end up with six complete petals at the end of the round. Sl st in the first ch of this round.

Round Four [Support Round]: If you look at the underside of the round you just completed you should look like the picture below.

You will work Support Rounds on the same stitches as the Petal Rounds, but in the back loops. Hold the work normally as you were before and work in behind the petals. Ch 2 and work 1 dc in the same stitch. Continue 1 dc, 2 dc around, ending with a sl st in the top of the initial ch 2 of this round.

Round Five [Petal Round]: Exactly as Round Three, work petal stitches in the front loops of the dcs you made in Round Four, finishing with a sl st in the top of the ch you made at the beginning of the round.

Round Six [Support Round]: Exactly as Round Four, work only in the back loops in the same stitches where the petals took the front loops. On this round, however, only work one dc in each stitch around.

Continue switching between a Petal Round and a Support Round until you have reached your optimal size. If you are wanting to change colors, do so when starting a Support Round if you want the two colors to be in line. If you would like a somewhat ombre effect, change colors when starting a Petal Round.

Important Note: The first Support Round is an increasing round where you increase the number of stitches in your project. The Support Rounds go as follows:
Round Four: *dc, dc 2* around - Support Increase Round
Round Six: dc 1 around - Support Round
Round Eight: *dc, dc, dc 2* around - Support Increase Round
Round Ten: dc 1 around - Support Round
Round Twelve: *dc, dc, dc, dc 2* around - Support Increase Round

Written Pattern:

Make Magic Circle OR ch 6 and connect to create a ring.

Round One: sc 15 into ring

Round Two: 2 dc in each sc around

Round Three [Petal Round]: Front Loops Only - ch 2, sc in same st, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc. Petal created. Continue petal stitch (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) around, ending round with 6 complete petals. Sl st to top of initial ch 2 of round.

Round Four [Support Increase Round]: Back Loops Only - Working in same stitches as previous round, ch 2, dc in same stitch, *dc, 2 dc* around until end, sl st in top of initial ch 2 of this round.

Round Five [Petal Round]: Front Loops Only - ch 2, sc in same stitch, hdc, 5 dc, sc. Petal created. Continue petal stitch around, ending with 9 complete petals. Sl st to top of initial ch 2 of round.

Round Six [Support Round]: Back Loops Only - Working in same stitches as previous round, ch 2, dc around, sl st in top of initial ch 2 of this round.

Round Seven [Petal Round]: Front Loops Only - ch 2 and work the same initial petal sequence and petal stitch around. Sl st to top of initial ch 2 of round. You should have 9 petals again at the end of this round.

Repeat the pattern as such until desired length is reached:

[Petal Round] - front loops only
[Support Increase Round] - back loops only
[Petal Round] - front loops only
[Support Round] - back loops only.

I hope you enjoy and please share the photos of your completed projects!